CRR09 Day 10, Friday - Tong Li

Our last field study of the trip took us to Tong Li, an ancient water town over 1000 years old. Located 11 miles from Suzhou on the eastern shore of Taihu Lake, it was home to many famous poets, painters, Confucian scholars and government officials. Today, it was home for five soggy Americans. Sloshing through the rain we swam our way to the bus depot and purchased tickets for the 40 minute ride back in time. The bus fare was just 8 yuan while the entrance fee to Tong Li was 72 yuan.

Upon entering the town we went in search of food. The first picture on the homework sheet from Kojo was pig's feet which was quite tasty. Lisa, being a vegetarian found the pig's feet pretty disgusting. I, on the other hand enjoyed it with rice porridge and a cup of lu cha (local green tea) at a tea house just inside the entrance. After we were seated upstairs our server asked if I wanted coffee! Little did she know I had a double espresso coursing through my veins. Another picture was of "stinky tofu" which was very stinky here. I have had it three times and only enjoyed it once. Surprisingly, most of my group liked it. We couldn't figure out the third picture so Jet and Lisa bought some sort of flat bread with black sesame seeds; not one of our favorite foods.

Further in the town was a beautiful garden. The students compared the town of Tong Li with that of Suzhou. As Tong Li is an historic place the government has tried to keep modern advancements such as vehicles off the streets but vendors bringing in income and taxes are welcome.

The Suzhou style garden was beautiful even in the rain. Climbing stairs carved into a rock we landed in a covered seating area with great views of the landscape. From here we could see the dragon-like curves of the rooftops.

Fortunately, the return home was uneventful; we caught a quick bus and got back to Suzhou in no time. We left Lisa at the bus station to meet up with her host family as they live near Tong Li. We tried to hire a taxi but either the fares were too high or the driver didn't know how to get to LiDa. In the end it was much easier to take the bus.

My host family and Amy's host family have been friends for years and we enjoyed a wonderful meal together at the Zhou residence. I learned that bullfrogs do indeed taste like chicken!

CRR09 Day 9, Thursday, Han Shan Si

I was able to sleep in a little bit today as I did not have to be at LiDa to meet my group until 9:00. Yu jia went by bicycle and Isadora was dropped off at the train station at 7:00 by Mrs. Zhou. I had a breakfast of warm sweet milk, fried bread (like a churro without the sugar), and scrambled eggs. The Zhou’s have an automatic espresso machine in the den which I automatically go to each morning.

I met my group at 9:00 for our orientation and to collect our funds for the day. Since our home-stays began the mornings are abuzz with conversation about host families, food, and of course SHOPPING. Both the boys and girls seem to be great bargainers, but the girls have definitely had more opportunities to put their skills to work. One girl was put on shopping and sugar probation by her chaperone until further notice.

Han Shan Si (Cold Mountain Temple) is a Buddhist temple about three miles west from Old Town Suzhou. The Temple was originally built during the Liang Dynasty (502-557), and was repaired in the following dynasties. It covers about three acres, representing the architectural style of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).We travelled by public bus with one transfer and a long walk over the Grand Canal. We knew we had reached our destination by the numerous tour busses and guides with wearable audio equipment. Immediately upon entering the temple we were hit by the scent of burning incense. Trees and bushes were filled with red ribbons written with prayers that would be carried by the wind. They were very beautiful swaying in the constant breeze of the day.

The students lost no time getting straight to the task at hand; finding a monk to interview. We were warned by previous groups that the monks disappear during lunch and that we should find them before 12:00. The men were dressed in orange robes while the women were in faded blue/grey. We learned that monks shave their heads to lessen their physical cares of the world so that they can devote all of their time to prayers. They are strict vegetarians and will not eat eggs as they were once living creatures. Garlic and onions are also prohibited because of the bad breath they leave behind. With all of the chanting, it is best to leave this worldly scent as well.

I climbed up one structure with very steep stairs and was rewarded with a view of the Temple grounds and surrounding city. It never ceases to amaze me to see the modern and ancient in such close proximity.
Like any tourist destination or local attraction, Han Shan Si is surrounded by hundreds of little stalls selling trinkets, paintings, silk, and anything else you might want. The air is filled with the constant chirping of “looky, looky.”

We got a little turned around on our way back to LiDa and asked dozens of people how to get to the Scholar’s Inn as our previous hotel was just a short walk from the school. Luckily, we had heeded Kojo’s rule to keep the hotel card “with you at all times!” As we were hitting the pavement we ran into a group of excited wai guo ren. Fortunately, they were not foreigners to us! Amy turned us in the right direction and we all relieved. It was time to reward ourselves with ice cream as we had managed another day.

A driver pick us up after school returning us to the Zhou family. It has been customary for us to sit down to dinner right when we get home. I do not know the names of the dishes we ate but suffice it to say that it was delicious!

After dinner Isadora shopped for a camera and then we went to a grocery store which was located inside a HUGE mall. We filled the shopping cart with many drinks, fruit, and meat for the following evening. Isadora got to experience durian, the fragrant spiked fruit. I wish I was able to snap a photo!

CRR09 Day 6, Monday - LiDa Middle School

Monday we departed the Scholar’s Inn to be begin our home stays with LiDa Families for the next eight days. We were quite the sight; twenty-four “wai guo ren” (foreigners) with suitcases walking down the streets of Suzhou. After a fifteen minute walk we reached our destination and waited for the LiDa staff to show us to our new headquarters. Room 18 is now mission control where each family will meet with Kojo for the day’s orientation.


After settling in our first stop was art class where we learned about opera masks and face painting. The colors red, blue, black, gold, and silver each represent different emotions and characteristics. The color of the mask/face paint give the audience insight into the character’s personality. Creating the mask is time consuming and a rare talent. We then painted our own clay mask which was then sprayed with lacquer.


Following the art class we went directly to opera fan dancing where everyone learned the fine art of fan dancing and Suzhou opera singing. Our teacher had an amazing voice which carried throughout the room. The boys were very handsome in their flowing costumes. Amy, Elizabeth, and Isadora were dressed in Empress clothing and posed for pictures.


We were given boxed lunches of rice, vegetables, chicken, and breaded fried pork. Free time followed and we were sorry we ate lunch as the street food was so inviting. LiDa has an open campus so there were a lot of vendors readying for the lunch crowd.


Our next class was physical education where we learned a series of martial arts moves that was then followed by a short break. Fully rested we twisted ourselves into various yoga poses with many of us (Amy) falling off our mats. Again we had free time. This time however, Amy, Kevin, Woody and I were hungry and ready to hit the streets for some great Suzhou snacks. We gorged ourselves on dumplings and chang you bing (a pancake-like crepe made with flour and water, scallions, salt, and sometimes a layer of egg).


Upon returning to LiDa we were expecting to have a welcome ceremony but instead were sent directly home with our host families. Hopefully, all of the speech writing and translation will not be wasted. Gifts that were intended to be given are still sitting at headquarters. LiDa students are currently in exam week and are extremely busy.


Isadora and I are staying with the Zhou family in a new housing development in downtown Suzhou. The Zhou family house is designed around Suzhou garden architecture. Yu jia and her parents have been very generous with their time and home.

I'm back online

Hi everyone,

I just got internet back this evening and will attempt to update you all with our latest adventures. We are now with our host families and have had our first field study on our own. The kids are amazing me with their language skills. If you ever doubted that all of the hard work and family commitment was was worth it, believe it is!

It is now almost midnight on Tuesday the 21st so I am going to call it a night. Check back soon to find out what we've been doing.





Pam

Day 5, Sunday * Hangzhou*

If there is one thing I learned today it is that people are all basically the same no matter where in the world they happen to be. I know this is an over-used cliche' but by the end of this post I think you will agree it was well used.

First of all, the forecast called for temperatures in the low 70's with showers in the afternoon. The temperature was about right but I would beg to differ on the "showers." I think West Lake increased in depth about 3 inches today with another 2 inches in various pairs of shoes. With the worldwide down turn in the economy I suggest that we layoff the weather forecasters first.

Hangzhou on a rainless day is one of the most beautiful places on earth. On a wet, soggy day, it is still a sight to behold. As the saying goes, "Above is Heaven, Below are Suzhou and Hangzhou." Unfortunately, my pictures today do not capture this beauty.

Before the downpour hit we made it half way up to the Taoist temple in a steady drizzle. When we finally made it to the top we were rewarded with the tranquil peace and solitude a Temple offers. Photos were not allowed inside of the Temple so we had to be content with the Temple grounds which are spectacular.

We ate a lunch of vegetarian noodles and worked on the field study packet. The students asked the temple stewards various questions and we continued on our way to West Lake.

This would have been an enjoyable walk but as it was we were getting wetter by the minute. Kojo and the chaperones (who were threatening to revolt) decided to cut the day short and return to Suzhou early as it was apparent the rain would not let up and it would be hopeless to continue with the planned activities.

Once we located our bus which was "just around the corner" we settled in for the ride home and an early dinner with free time afterwards. I am sure we all know men in the US who would rather drive in circles (or around a lake) than ask for directions. This is no different on the other side of the globe. Kevin Bacon was ready to jump off the bus and ask directions himself which would have been more helpful than driving the wrong direction to a tea plantation. To make a very, very long ride home short, we did make it back to the Scholar's Inn for a quick dinner and "surprise" birthday party for Antonio.

Tomorrow we begin our home stays. We are all a little anxious and excited for the coming week.

I do not know what kind of internet access my host family has so my posting may be sporadic.

Day 4 Saturday, Old Town Suzhou

Today we explored the older areas of Suzhou gaining glimpses of life joining the old and new worlds. Canals built a thousand years ago are surrounded by original housing and new modern construction. Ceramic roof tiles weathered with age stand next to glass and concrete buildings lacking the character of its neighbor. As with the architecture, modern inhabitants of Suzhou are on the run with cell phones to ears while the old timers stroll leisurely in alleyways or play chess in the park. I was heartened watching an old couple holding hands while shopping at the food market.

The food market we visited was an incredible smorgasbord of smells and sights. One of students' tasks today was to find a fruit or vegetable not available in the United States. With the food traveling great distances to reach our grocery stores this was not as easy as it sounded.

Some students were caught off guard seeing the conditions chickens were kept in before being sent to the butcher block and then seeing them hanging from meat hooks out in non-refrigerated stalls. The vendors were interested in speaking with the students asking where they were from and what they were doing in China. I found them all very friendly. Many were camera shy until I snapped a photo of their neighbor then showed it to them. Some were surprised to see their picture right away and asked if it was a digital camera. Although many things may be made in China not everyone has the opportunity to enjoy the product.

Unfortunately, one of our family members became ill and needed to take a rest. Our tutor led us down a tree-lined alley near his house where we could sit in the shade.

It was a nice peaceful break giving us all a chance to take a breather from our busy activities. This detour was a good reminder for us all to keep hydrated and slow down and enjoy the adventure.

The rest of the day we snacked on local treats and did a little shopping through vendor-lined streets. Here we found stone beads, a man making sculptures out of boiling sugar, round wooden whistles and too many other trinkets to mention.

Despite the illness we had a fun-filled day and an evening of rest before we travel to Hangzhou tomorrow morning for a day of hiking, bicycling, and fun.

Day 3 -- Friday, April 17, 2009

Day 3 began for many of us at 2-3:00 in the wee hours of the morning. While some were lucky enough to re-enter dream land others stared at the ceiling.

We breakfasted downstairs in the hotel restaurant on boiled eggs, rice porridge, noodles, sticky rice wrapped in tiny banana leaf pyramids and various other delicacies. The hot Tang was interesting and hot chocolate shared by Kelvin was a big hit.

With stomachs full we retreated to the conference room to meet our college tutors for next two days and get instructions for the Great Race.

Our mission was to get acquainted with the city and learn how to manage the bus system. To do this we first needed to exchange money for bus fare. This was more complicated than expected as we were turned away from some banks for one reason or another until finally, the Bank of China filled our wallets and we were good to go.

If you have ever thought traffic in Portland was bad you haven't been to China. Lane markings do little if anything to keep cars, mopeds, bicyclists, busses, or pedestrians in order. Traffic is a whirlwind of stop motion and incredibly amongst the ceaseless honking of horns it moves and one eventually easies his way in and out of space.

I was very impressed with how my Family did not back away from the many challenges facing them today. Navigating a new city in a foreign language is a daunting task. With guidance from our host they were able to get us to the Suzhou Train Station where they purchased tickets in advance for our field study to Shanghai on Day 7. Having been taught at a young age not to talk to strangers it took a bit of convincing to ask people on the street or vendors for information. Once they got the hang of it there was no holding back.

After purchasing tickets we headed back into town to buy a dictionary and postcards at a book store. Famished we delved into our bowls of noodles then proceeded to the Silk Factory to meet up with the rest of the class. Here we learned about the process of making silk before returning to the Scholar's Inn for some down time.

Kojo promised the students a surprise at the end of the day and after a delicious dinner on the Suzhou canal he came through with a boat excursion. Those of us who managed to keep our eyes open were treated to a wonderful trip under lighted bridges through canals/streets built over 1000 years ago.

Tomorrow we continue the Great Race though it is not really a race but an adventure for sure.